Properties of platinum are as follows: most precious white metal naturally, 95 % pure platinum, 5 % Iridium.    
 
     

Platinum is a very dense material, malleable but fantastic friction wear. It is a very clean and sterile metal that doesn’t oxidize. It’s natural patina is steel white and this is why platinum is the preferred metal to use with diamonds.

  We have witnessed fine platinum filigree jewellery designed at the turn of the 20 th century that is still structurally sound with very little wear, after 100 years engraved patterns are still in very good condition! Platinum will scratch and get little “Dings”, but the metal displaces itself and can actually be pushed or burnished back to its original shape. Our craftsmen thoroughly enjoy designing and fabricating with platinum.
     
Properties of white gold are as follows: pure yellow gold is alloyed (pigmented) to a white colour, very hard and good friction wear.
     

The main ingredient of white gold alloy is nickel, which is not as sterile. White gold will oxidize over time in areas that are hidden from friction wear, i.e. inside edges of claws etc. The natural patina of white gold has a slight overtone of yellow, basically because the majority of the mixture is pure yellow gold. The higher karat gold (i.e. 18 karat) has higher pure yellow gold content, so 18 kt. white gold has more yellow overtones than 10 kt. white gold.

There is another alloy option to white gold ­ Palladium. This metal is in the platinum family. The mixture with pure yellow gold results in a much “whiter” colour that will not oxidize yellow overtones. Unfortunately, the price of palladium can be 50% to 75% of platinum, so our clients usually opt for white gold or platinum.

 

 

Platinum on average will cost tree times that of 18 kt. white gold, when we factor in the extra time ( labour cost) platinum requires. This issue is of price is like a weigh scale, platinum advantages vs. the cost of white gold.

A counter measure for the yellow overtones of white gold is Rhodium Plating. This process essentially covers the portion of white gold with a “platinum like” metal called Rhodium. The plating is very white, but with friction wear will periodically require re-plating. This will usually cost $ 35.00 - $ 100.00 (depending on the size of the piece). J. B. Simpson and Sons recommends this process for pendants and earrings- minimal friction wear helps the plating last for a long time. Rings and bracelets endure much more wear and tear so frequent re-plating costs could eventually have paid for the platinum. White gold works very well with two-tone jewellery. Rich 18 kt. yellow gold compliments white gold very nicely.

 

19kt white gold is relatively new to the world of manufactured jewellery. It is a super white alloy that resists tarnishing very well. It is similar to Platinum in colour; without the yellow overtones found in 14kt white gold, therefore Rhodium plating is not necessary. 19kt white gold is extremely resilient to everyday wear- the hardest of the gold colours!

   

 

 

 

Fine Jewellery Designers and Goldsmiths Over 30 Years 'In The Making'