Platinum
is a very dense material, malleable but fantastic
friction wear. It is a very clean and sterile
metal that doesn’t oxidize. It’s natural patina
is steel white and this is why platinum is the
preferred metal to use with diamonds. |
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We have witnessed fine
platinum filigree jewellery designed at the turn
of the 20 th century that is still structurally
sound with very little wear, after 100 years engraved
patterns are still in very good condition! Platinum
will scratch and get little “Dings”, but the metal
displaces itself and can actually be pushed or burnished
back to its original shape. Our craftsmen thoroughly
enjoy designing and fabricating with platinum. |
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main ingredient of white gold alloy is nickel,
which is not as sterile. White gold will oxidize
over time in areas that are hidden from friction
wear, i.e. inside edges of claws etc. The natural
patina of white gold has a slight overtone of
yellow, basically because the majority of the
mixture is pure yellow gold. The higher karat
gold (i.e. 18 karat) has higher pure yellow gold
content, so 18 kt. white gold has more yellow
overtones than 10 kt. white gold.
There is another alloy option to
white gold Palladium. This metal is in the platinum
family. The mixture with pure yellow gold results
in a much “whiter” colour that will not oxidize
yellow overtones. Unfortunately, the price of
palladium can be 50% to 75% of platinum, so our
clients usually opt for white gold or platinum.
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Platinum
on average will cost tree times that of 18 kt.
white gold, when we factor in the extra time (
labour cost) platinum requires. This issue is
of price is like a weigh scale, platinum advantages
vs. the cost of white gold.
A counter measure for the yellow
overtones of white gold is Rhodium Plating. This
process essentially covers the portion of white
gold with a “platinum like” metal called Rhodium.
The plating is very white, but with friction wear
will periodically require re-plating. This will
usually cost $ 35.00 - $ 100.00 (depending on
the size of the piece). J. B. Simpson and Sons
recommends this process for pendants and earrings-
minimal friction wear helps the plating last for
a long time. Rings and bracelets endure much more
wear and tear so frequent re-plating costs could
eventually have paid for the platinum. White gold
works very well with two-tone jewellery. Rich
18 kt. yellow gold compliments white gold very
nicely. |